Waterproof cycling clothing - everything you need to know

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Suvi Loponen's picture

Suvi Loponen

Staff Writer

Suvi enjoys cycling in all of its forms, especially over long distances. What started as a hobby has now grown to be her lifestyle and a job, in which she can also utilise her MSc degree in investigative journalism. Although, most of her current investigations revolve around the mystery of sourdough bread baking and finding decent (amounts of) coffee on bike rides.


8 months 3 weeks ago

I think the only thing I would mention here is that to suggest higher hydrostatic head ratings are more suitable for heavier rain is a common but incorrect misconception. 10k will keep you just as dry as 20k or higher in heavy rain because rain doesn't in itself exert much pressure, even if its windy. A lot of tents are only 5k. The differences in pressure come from, mainly, whether or not you are using a backpack and how heavy it is. Most people would still be fine with 10k but photographers, campers etc who carry more might want something a little higher to stop water seeping in through the shoulders.

For cyclists, 10k should be fine as most either don't carry a backpack at all, or don't have much in it.

8 months 4 weeks ago

NEVER USE DETERGENT!!!!!!!  It will strip the DWR coating off your wateproofs.

Use mild soap like Lux flakes or Nikwax Loft instead and run the machine on a empty cycle to wash out any detergent residue first.

When your waterproofs stop beading water then give them a wash.  If water isn't beading then the DWR surface is dirty and you will also start to get condensation on the inside as the breathability is compromised.  And remember if it is raining then the breathability of even the best Gore-Tex jacket is next to zero as all breathable systems rely on a humidity gradient between inside and outside to move the moisture across the membrane.  And NEVER EVER wear cotton under a waterproof/breathable jacket.

Gore Engineered For Extreme Weather trained sales assistant in my youth.